Hat FAQs

How do I know what size to order?

 

See our Find My Size page for measuring instructions and a size chart. If your head measurement falls exactly between two sizes, it is generally better to order the larger size. A slightly loose hat can be customized to a perfect fit by placing strips of thin foam behind the sweatband (we include a set of foam strips with every hat that has a sweatband*). Occasionally a particular hat will not match our size chart. Such information will be included at the bottom of the hat's description. If you have doubts about choosing a size, just call us with your head measurement (or size history) and we will help choose the right size for you (toll-free 1-877-943-4287, 9am-5pm EST; or 1-860-872-6124 outside of N. America).

Those new to hat-buying may have some question about whether they've achieved a proper fit. Should it be snug? Should it be loose? Actually, it should be both. The hat should be snug enough that it does not slide around when you shake your head rapidly, and it should not feel like it's going to fall off when you bend over. If it feels loose, try putting one or two of the Fit Kit strips behind the sweatband. If it still feels loose you should exchange for a smaller size. On the other hand, the hat should not be so tight that it pinches, bites into your skin, or causes discomfort after just a few minutes of wear. If it does, you should exchange for a larger size.

If you have difficulty with proper fit due to your head shape not matching the shape of a hat--for example, the hat is tight front and back but loose on the sides (long oval), or tight on the sides but loose front and back (round)--give us a call and we'll help find a good fit.

*Fit Kit strips are not included with hats by Tilley Endurables,  Hanna caps, or other hats with sewn or adjustable sweatbands. Cotton canvas Tilley hats may be adjusted slightly up or down by following the instructions in the included owner's manual.

Can I return a hat if it doesn't fit, or if I don't like it?

Absolutely. Our 30 day exchange/refund guarantee means you can return a hat if it doesn't fit, if you don't like the way it looks, if you don't like the color, if you just changed your mind...or for any reason at all! And, if you would like to exchange for a different hat, we won't charge you shipping on the new item (U.S. orders only. International exchanges may require additional shipping charges.) If a hat is returned after 30 days, it does incur a 15% restocking fee. There is an exception for the winter holiday gift giving at which time, we do take returns up until Jan. 31th without the restocking fee.

Do you have women's sizes?

Men's and women's hat sizes are the same. Many of our hats are purchased and worn by women. Just measure your head and consult our size table.

How do I care for my hat?

We choose quality hats that will stand up to hard wear, so you don't need to baby them in order to obtain many years of functionality from them. Many people value the dings, dents, scars, and other markings that a hat acquires over years of wear, much like the patina of antique furniture. But if you wish to maintain the hat's original look and fit for as long as possible, there are some things you can do.

1. Store your hat properly. If you keep it on a shelf, set the hat upside down on its crown (top). Storing it flat on its brim can flatten the brim or change its shape. You can store it right side up if you set it on something to raise the brim up enough so it doesn't rest on the shelf (such as a large upside-down bowl, mannequin head, coffee can, etc, or our own Hat Rest) If you want to hang it up, hang it on a peg or hook that has a large end, to avoid putting a "dimple" or dent in the hat where it's weight rests on the hook. Small metal coat hooks can be made more "hat friendly" by cutting a small slit in an old tennis ball or racquetball and putting it over the hook. This will also keep the hat from falling off.

    

2. Avoid handling the hat by the crown when putting it on or taking it off, as it may eventually change the shape of the crown or put a crease in it. Grasp the hat by the brim in both front and back or, using one hand, grasp the side of the brim and slip your thumb inside the crown. Avoid pinching a straw hat at the front of the crown when putting it on or removing it, as this may cause the straw to crack over time.

    

3. NEVER apply artificial heat (fire, blow dryer, radiator, clothes dryer, etc.) to dry out your wet hat. This will cause a hat to shrink or change shape. Set it upside down on its crown and let it dry out naturally. If the hat has unwanted rumples or dents, smooth them out before the hat dries. If possible, turn the sweatband inside out when drying. This can help prevent leather or cotton sweatbands from shrinking. Shrinking from repeated wettings and dryings can be prevented by regular use of a hat stretcher. If you do experience shrinkage in your hat, it can be easily restored with a hat stretcher.

    

4. Remove excess dirt and dust from your hat. A build-up of dirt or dust can reduce a hat's water-repellency, and is the root cause of the appearance of "water-spots" in felt hats.

Fur and wool felt hats: Use a soft bristled hat brush or soft sponge (or the old-time method: a piece of firm bread) to remove dirt, dust, and grime. Always brush felt hats in a counter-clockwise direction (crown facing you). Mud is most easily removed by allowing it to dry, then brushing it out. Apply corn starch to grease spots--rub in liberally with fingers and allow to stand for 15 minutes--and brush out the residue. Stains resistant to these methods may require a stain remover such as our Dry Cleaning Pad.

Waxed cotton and oilskin hats: Simply wipe dirt or mud away with a wet cloth. Do not use soap, as it may erode the finish. If you notice a loss of water-repellency over time, you may renew the hat's finish with an oilskin/waxed cotton reproofing cream such as Duck Back.

Straw hats: Remove dirt and dust with a soft brush, sponge, or cloth. A whisk broom may work better for more textured weaves. Wipe with moist cloth if necessary. Stubborn stains and overall dinginess from dirt or grease may be removed with our NuStraw straw hat cleaner.

Canvas or Nylon hats: Hand wash with warm water and a mild detergent. Tilley hats can be handwashed, machine washed, or placed on the top rack of a dishwasher (skip the dry cycle). Smooth out any wrinkles, make sure the brim is shaped as you wish, and allowed it to air dry, upside down, resting on its crown.

Moleskin hats: Brush out dried dirt and dust. Stains can be worked on with a damp cloth, and a very mild detergent if necessary. Stains resistant to these methods may require a stain remover such as our Dry Cleaning Pad. Or, if desired, professionally dry clean.

Wool hats (woven fabric): Wool is naturally dirt-repellent. Most dried dirt and dust may be removed by brushing with a soft brush. Stains resistant to these methods may require a stain remover such as our Dry Cleaning Pad. Or, if desired, professionally dry clean.

An application of Scout Rain & Stain Repellant will add to the water repellency of your fur felt, wool felt, wool, straw, canvas, and nylon hat, and also make later stain removal much easier.

What is the difference between fur felt and wool felt?

Fur felt, made from the fine hairs of rabbits or beaver, is generally thinner, lighter in weight, and more dense than wool felt. Due to the density of the material, fur felt hats can have a raw edge brim (just cut, no binding or welt) while wool felt hat brim edges must generally be bound or welted (turned over and sewn). The greater density of fur felt generally relates to a longer lifespan of the hat (there are Civil War era fur felt hats that could still give good service). Fur felt hats can also be given a smoother finish than wool felt, which is why it is a preferred material for dress hats. Both felts have similar characteristics of water-repellency and breathability (though there are a host of poor quality wool felt hats out there that fall apart when they get wet--none of which are sold here). Wool felt hats have an edge in insulating ability in cold weather.

Can I change the shape of my felt hat?

Minor changes--such as increasing the dip in the brim or putting a little more pinch in the crown--can sometimes be accomplished with some gentle coaxing from just your hands. However, an easier and more lasting effect can be achieved by first applying some steam from a teakettle or pot of boiling water to the area you wish to change. The steam will make the felt more supple for easier shaping, and when the hat cools/dries the changes will stay more readily. Our felt hats are much more flexible than the majority of the western-style felt hats being sold today, and so are easier to shape yourself.

NOTE: Crushable felt hats are designed to resist changes in shape, so liberal doses of steam and patience are required to change the shape of these types of hats. The exception would be the Borsalino Traveler, which is so unusually supple that it is both crushable and easy to hand shape.

Are felt hats comfortable in warm weather?

Many people equate felt, particularly wool felt, with cold weather wear only. To the contrary, natural materials like wool and fur have remarkable thermostatic properties, retaining needed heat in cold conditions and actively releasing excess heat in warm conditions. Felt is also naturally breathable. Akubra fur felt hats were developed for protection from the intense sun of the Australian Outback, and John B. Stetson's first hat was a fur felt "sombrero" intended for sun protection. For most people, a typical comfort range of a wool or fur felt hat would be something like from 40 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. This, of course, will vary up or down with the individual, activity level, etc. We have seen felt hats in use for everything from ice fishing to hiking the Grand Canyon.

Why aren't your Panama straw hats made in Panama?

A genuine Panama hat comes from Ecuador (and, to a lesser extent, neighboring Colombia) where the technique of splitting palm straw and weaving it in a concentric pattern was developed. The hats acquired the name "Panama hat" because they were first seen and acquired by travelers going through the Panama Canal. All genuine Panama hats are woven by a handful of Ecuadorian weavers, most of whom belong to families that have been doing it for many generations. Most hatmakers (like Stetson and Scala) buy the raw hat body from Ecuador, then do their own blocking (shaping) and trimming (sweatband, band, etc.)

How water-repellent are felt hats?

A quality felt hat is VERY water-repellent. So much so that many manufacturers apply the word "waterproof" to the label. While we hesitate to use that term (we are sticklers for accuracy, so we reserve use of that term for fabrics that NEVER let water through), we will say that you will not find another material that is both as water-repellent AND as comfortable over a wide range of temperatures and conditions as quality fur or wool felt. In our experience, any of the felt hats we sell will, at a minimum, keep your head dry in a short downpour, a 2-hour steady rain, or an all-day drizzle. Water-repellent treatments--like our Scout Rain & Stain Repellant-- will extend these times. If you have questions about the water-repellency of a certain hat, just ask. Rainy days are looked upon as "field-testing opportunities" at Noggintops. (Actually, "field-testing opportunity" applies to any day I can get away with it! ;-)

Are crushable felt hats really crushable?

These hats have a remarkable memory for their original shape, allowing you to roll, scrunch, or flatten them for packing in a pack, suitcase, or coat pocket. Generally all that is required to return them to the proper shape is a few seconds of pushing and smoothing. However, the hats are not intended to be stored indefinitely in a flattened/rolled shape. As with even the most forgiving of materials, leaving one of these hats rolled or folded for very long periods of time (weeks or months, for example) will result in some unwanted dents, rumples, or changes in shape. The same can be said for allowing a wet hat to dry while in a rolled/flattened state. Even then, you may be able to revive the hat by wetting it or holding it over a steaming pot of water and massaging it back into shape.

There are two preferred methods for packing the hat: Folding or Rolling. 

What is the difference between "oilskin" and "waxed cotton"?

Though there was a difference many years ago, these days the terms are used interchangeably to describe cotton canvas that has been impregnated with a blend of waxes and oils. Pure oil finishes were very flexible, but felt greasy and needed frequent re-application to stay water-repellent. Pure wax finishes were quite waterproof but became stiff in cold weather and cracked in areas that flexed frequently. Today's "oilskin" and "waxed cotton" finishes are an optimum blend of both waxes and oils that maximize the advantages of each, without the disadvantages. No matter what the name, it is a fabric that is noted for its extreme water-repellency, abrasion and puncture resistance, and a very distinctive appearance that improves with age.

How do the Akubra chincord hooks work?

A select few of the Akubra models (Cattleman, Kiandra) have built-in chincord hooks that accomodate a specially made braided kangaroo chincord. The hooks are permanently attached inside the hat and allow you to securely attach the chincord without need for holes in the brim. The chincord can be removed or attached as often as you like. The hooks are flat--so you don't feel them--and are accessed by turning out the sweatband and lifting up the edge of the inner lining (Figure 1).

Figure 1

The flat, slotted end of the chincord (Figure 2, center) is inserted through the slit in the sweatband stitching located below each hook (Figure 2, left).

 

 

Figure 2

The slotted end of the chincord is then secured on the hook (Figure 3)

 

 

Figure 3

 

 

 

How do you pronounce Akubra anyway?

Akubra, a native Austrailian word meaning "hat" is pronounced:
"Uh coo' bruh" .